A Message to my pre-Botswana self

Ever read those “What I’d tell my 18 year old self” posts?

They are supposed to impart some wisdom on your younger self having had now had experience and time on your side.

Well this is a take on it – except it’s what I would have told myself – before leaving for Botswana.

Ain't no thang...just horses in the street...

20. Pack whatever you want – don’t listen to people telling you that you don’t need “fancy” clothes or purses, shoes or other accessories. Bring em if you want them!

19. Know that whatever you bring will get over worn – darks will somehow become light and shoes will get crazy ruined by the roads, but you’ll be happy you brought them! Also remember you can donate whatever pieces you don’t want to take home to a local deserving Motswana.

An elusive (yet absolutely delicious) macchiato

18. Buy a yoga mat as soon as you get there – you’ll need it to zen out…every day – living in a developing country will present many challenges for which you’ll need a few down-dogs and deep yogic cleansing breaths to keep you calm.

17. Spend as much time outside as possible. The sunshine is lovely and at home, people are trudging through snow. Don’t forget to use 30 or more SPF all the time, every day…even when it is cloudy, those sun’s rays are getting to you and you need to prevent those wrinkles!

16. You are going to meet some amazing people who will probably be in your life for a long time to come.

15. Buy a local phone. Do not hesitate. They are cheap and you’ll be happy you have it, especially when you start traveling.

a Marula tree with its fruit

14. Ensure all your devices are always charged – you never know when an eight hour power outage may occur and you just may need to catch up on Downton Abbey or play Candy Crush.

13. Your need to shop will dissipate as soon as you find out there’s really nothing to buy…try as hard as possible not to resort to on-line shopping.

12. Batswana are nice…get to know them, speak to them in their language, use the colloquial phases…but remember, once they get behind the wheel of a car, they are dangerous – always look both ways, then look again before you cross the road!

11. Go on as many safaris as you can. They will cost you, but you will love every minute. Remember to stop and live in the moment. Listen to that herd of elephants silently walk past you instead of taking pictures. Then again, your distaste for home videos may change. Take a few videos so you can show people how warthogs move.

10. You think you want to see a “kill” on safari, but as soon as you watch a lion chomp on a zebra lung, you want to hurl…re-think the kill thing.

9. Try the local game meat – ostrich, impala, eland etc. It’s delicious. The biltong on the other hand…well, I guess you should try it also.

Main Mall Gaborone

8. The food is great. The beef and lamb are particularly fresh, free range and organic. SO good. Enjoy it, but know you won’t get good seafood til South Africa. And bring coffee. Good coffee is hard to come by in Gaborone. Bring coffee!!!

7. You will fulfill your shopping needs by buying souvenirs…too many perhaps.

6. The work you will be doing is not difficult. It is not earth shattering. But it will do good for the country and for your team. And remember, you’re in Africa. (That in itself is amazing!)

5. Use your excess brain power to read and learn as much as you can about anything you want. Write lots and read even more. You never know where it will lead you.

4. Remember to call home – as often as the internet provides…and get used to crappy internet…it’s the norm.

3. Being in Africa will allow for time to reflect and think about what you want to do next. Don’t be afraid of it.

2.  You know that everyone is different. Remember to have patience with this.

1. You will leave part of your soul in Cape Town.

Rich vs. Poor...

This morning on the way to the office, we chatted about the rich-poor divide.

Jenny had learned that the rich felt that any time you show any sort of kindness to the poorer, they will ask you for something.

I have to say, I have experienced this in Botswana.

I have written before about our “office boy”, he’s helped me out with some errands while I’ve been here:

-          helping me purchase a local cell phone

-          re-soleing and heeling my shoes

-          getting pants hemmed

-          washing our house car

-          and every day, carrying my bags from the car to the office…

So given the opportunity, I sometimes give him little gifts (in addition to providing a tip each time he goes out on an errand for me). For example, upon my return from Cape Town, I brought him two huge chocolate bars (his request) and a t-shirt.

Now do you remember the “tea lady” I spoke of in an earlier post?

She brings us a tray of hot water, instant coffee and tea every day then cleans up in the afternoon.

She is pleasant enough but lately has been asking for gifts.

For example, she asked me if I forgot to bring her present when she saw Belé’s.

A little forward I thought, especially after subsequent requests.

And Jenny had a story from one of the “Real Housewives of Phakalane” too.

The “housewife” told of a caddy at the golf course who had befriended her.

The caddy was a skilled mechanic and finally found a full-time job at a reputable business.

While confirming his first day of work on Monday, his new employer confirmed that he had his own tools. Not wanting to lose the opportunity, he said yes.

Not having the money to purchase these tools, he turned to the “housewife” who he had been caddying for for some time.

She agreed to buy them for him, a full set of tools cost the equivalent of about $500 CDN.

And so I’ve been thinking.

Is this too forward?

Is there a limit to the generosity of others?

What’s the difference between the caddy and the tea lady?

The divide between rich and poor in this country is so great that if these new tools were the difference between a life of poverty or self sufficiency for this man (and his family), I would probably buy the tools for him also…even though I truly should be spending that money on my mortgage or paying a student loan. So why is the repeated request from the tea lady for a present so annoying?

Would you give her a present?

Just something I’ve been contemplating in my last few days here in Gaborone.

 ******

Aside – as I wrote this, the tea lady in question stopped by and proclaimed, “I am waiting for a present…for a baby boy.” I could do nothing but smile.

The Real World Gaborone - Episode 5

This is the true story of five strangers, picked to live in a house, work together and have their lives taped, to find out what happens when people stop being polite... and start getting real. This is The Real World, Gaborone.

 

Downtown Gaborone

Arriving from an amazing weekend in Cape Town, I jump into the house car…

“SO???” asks Jenny excitedly, “How was Cape Town?!”

“Amazing!” I reply enthusiastically.

“We missed you LuckyCdnGirl!” Tina says.

“Tell us! What was the best?” asks Jenny.

I start into a diatribe of all the awesomeness that is Cape Town and don’t slow down for a breath.

I miss Cape Town.

Or as Trevor taught me this weekend…I have a serious “tabanca” for Cape Town.

Tabanca – a Caribbean term meaning a deep longing for something you can no longer have

View of Gaborone suburbs

Yup – I have a serious tabanca for Cape Town.

But let’s go back to Trevor…He has a serious tabanca for home.

He left a few weeks ago to go home for a visit, remember?

He returned while I was in Cape Town.

He is not adjusting well to life back in Gaborone.

It can be hard.

You go from your life, your space, your home, your car, your loved ones, your world…

To –

Sharing a house with 4 other strangers, sharing 1 car, life without your loved ones, and a country riddled with electricity challenges and NOT the best internet connection in the world…I mean really, what is 2.5G?!

Jenny was at a party last night with her new local friends…the “Real Housewives of Phakalane.”

(Phakalane Golf Estates is where we live…it’s a gated neighbourhood about 15km from downtown Gaborone filled with ex-pats from South Africa and various other rich people from around the world…it’s a very interesting place to say the least!)

Anyway, at the party, Jenny met these guys from South Africa that told her this joke –

Q - What’s the best part of Gaborone?

A – Johannesburg

Yup – finding interesting things to do in Gabs can get difficult after a while.

Sure we have our favourite restaurants and even lounges…

We can go to the movies too.

There’s even a little bit of shopping…

But other than that – there really isn’t much else to amuse us.

So Trevor’s tabanca for home and mine for Cape Town are quite reasonable…

Hanging out after work at Casa Maria we sip on our drinks…

Jenny drinks red wine.

Trevor drinks vodka tonics.

Tina drinks water.

And I drink g&t.

Like friends and colleagues we chat a little about everything.

Last Friday night was no different.

“I don’t believe there is one special person out there for you,” Jenny says.

“Neither do I,” Trevor answers.

“I think my reality of my boyfriend is not who he really is,” Jenny continues. “I think I have a created the perfect Jeff in my head. Like I’ve taken all the best parts of him and that’s who he is to me. I don’t think it’s necessarily the person he is.”

“What? Really?” I ask.

“Yeah, I see her point,” Trevor says. “I’d like to think that my ex-girlfriends only see the best parts of me. But truly, I’m all good!”

“HA HA HA HA!” We all laugh. 

“Very funny Trev” Tina says, “I know a few women who may think otherwise.”

As an aside - I'm still trying to figure this one out.

Do we really only see the best parts of our loved ones and friends?

Do we gloss over the nasty bits?

I'm not entirely convinced.

At our last full house dinner that night we go to our favourite Chinese restaurant in the Sbele Centre. (I actually have no idea what it’s called. But if you’re in Gabs, it’s the only Chinese restaurant at Sbele.)

Nazir (Tina's sometimes crush) and his family own the restaurant.

They have been in Botswana about 20 years now but are originally from the beautiful Chinese city Xi'an.

Nazir and some of the houesmates work out together at Jack's Gym at Mowana Park.

Over the past couple months we have gotten to know Nazir and the delicious food at their restaurant so it's quite fitting our last full-house dinner is at Nazir's.

Nazir sets us up in our own private room and provides us with a complimentary bottle of red wine. Needless to say, we are feeling good...SO good in fact that for some reason during dinner, Jenny and I are stroking Tina's arms noting how soft they are.

Junior and Trevor are just shaking their heads at us (silly) women when one of the wait staff enters the room, sees our silliness and slowly backs out again.

We, of course, are left in hysterics.

It's all about the silly stupid stuff sometimes. 

Tina is now on her leave.

Her bedroom is across from mine. We sort of share the south wing of the house…It’s kind of sad not knowing when I’ll see her next. She is on the project for the full three years and home for her is in the Caribbean so I’m not sure when/if our paths will ever cross again.

We had what has become the ritual brunch out before the airport run with Tina on Saturday. Although, we did check her in and drop her bags at the Sir Seretse Khama International Airport first.  Afterall  this is actuary Tina we’re talking about, she would never enjoy a leisurely three omelette breakfast and dessert of carrot cake knowing that she is not yet checked in!

Dropping her off at the airport has a tinge of sadness.

And it’s weird to see her walk off away from us.

A part of our family is now on her way half way around the world and almost home.

That will soon be me…

           

****************

Jr. – a mid-20’s Toronto boy, born and bred. Accountant by trade. On this project to travel and try something different. Nurse/student girlfriend at home.

Trevor – an early 30’s guy from the Caribbean. Completed a number of these types of projects before in different countries. Single

Tina – a late 30’s/early 40’s Caribbean woman who has lived and worked with Trevor on projects in different countries. Single

Jenny – an early 30’s woman from Vancouver. Common-law Life partner at home.

And me. LuckyCdnGirl. Accustomed to travel and absolutely loving my time in Africa.

Oh Hello Cape Town!

 Cape Town from atop Table Mountain

I’ve just returned from 5 amazing days in Cape Town.

Before I left for Africa, someone told me (I think it was train friend David), that you always leave part of your heart in Africa…

I totally understand now.

Cape Town is now up there with my most favourite cities in the world…Jerusalem (Israel), Annecy (France), and now Cape Town, South Africa.

I’m not sure whether it was the perfect sunny 28 degrees celcius days, the mountains, the 

Camp's Bay

oceans, the great coffee, the amazing food or the people…whatever it was, it amounted to a pretty perfect long weekend.

There are so many highlights.

There were so many must-do’s.

But let me tell you about my new friend Chris.

Apartheid

I was connected with Chris through one of the bed & breakfasts I stayed at.

He took me on two full day tours – one of the Peninsula, the other of the Wine Region.

Chris is incredibly personable, easy to talk to, friendly, open, all great qualities of a tour guide.

I’d have to say though, that after spending two days together, I have made a new friend in Cape Town.

In my attempt to learn more about apartheid, I visited the District Six museum.

It is an area in Cape Town (one of many) where, beginning in the 1960’s the government decided to make it a White’s Only area.

People who lived in District Six were a mix of different “colours” and faiths. They got a long well. They were each other’s family.

And then the government expelled them.

Just like that.

They were sent to live about 30km away from the city.

They lost their homes.

They were not compensated at all.

(Today the South African government is taking steps to rectify this.)

To those of us who live freely in countries that do not see colour, race, or faith as a “barrier”, we cannot imagine this, much less comprehend this.

Nelson Mandela and I

Chris drove me through District Six, pointing out where he was born, where he played with his friends, the church he and his family attended, and then where they went after they were expelled from the District.

He told me stories of his anger.

He told me about dropping out of school to work and help support his family.

(And then later finishing his high school diploma as an adult)

He showed me the half-way house his family ran for ex-prisoners of Robben Island.

While the District Six museum definitely helped me begin to understand apartheid in South Africa, my time with Chris helped me to really begin to be aware of the atrocities of that time and be in awe of the fact that up to 20 years ago, people were still segregated based on the colour of their skin.

Beauty

The beauty of Cape Town will hit you as soon as you land at Cape Town International.

There is something about the sea air, the breeze, the view of the surrounding mountains…

Did I mention I went parasailing?
INCREDIBLE experience!

Have you heard about Table Mountain?

It was recently named one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

It’s super cool – a big tall mountain in the middle of the city with a flat top, hence, “table” mountain.

I took a cable car to the top and back down again, but there are several routes you can take to hike up the mountain.

I was there just before sunset and it was gorgeous!

Oh – the cable car is totally dependent on the ever changing weather and wind in Cape Town – make sure you check before you go up there to make sure the mountain is “open”.

There is also this phenomenon call the “Table Cloth” when wind brings the cloud in over the mountain and a layer of cloud covers the top and drapes down the side of the mountain…soooo pretty!

Cape Town was also named Design Capital of the World 2014. You will instantly see why.

The architecture of the city is mixed from old Dutch to modern. It’s a great mix!

To add to this are all the local artists and designers – a really fun way to see a good mix of them is on the Saturday Neighbourhood Goods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill.

The “mill” is just like the Distillery District in Toronto…old cobblestoned, very sweet!

And the market on Saturday mornings is such a fun way to spend a few hours – shopping and eating local delicious foods, sipping organic coffees, juices and alcoholic beverages too…

Oh…did I mention live music?

That too!

Table Mountain with its "table cloth"

The Peninsula!

So why would you spend a whole day driving down to the “point”?

Well – other than seeing where the two oceans meet – again, it’s beautiful…and every little fishing village you pass along the way is just beautiful.

The route you can take will also take you to Boulder’s Beach where you can see the South African Penguin or Cape Penguin…I can’t remember what’s its new name is…it used to be the Jackass penguin – I’m not kidding! You can walk along the beach and see the penguins just hangin’ out!

It’s really cool and the huge boulders on the beach are awesome also!

The Cape

There are two points - Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope.

Cape Point is where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet.

The Cape of Good Hope is the most south-western tip of the Cape. It’s the site of many historic landings of Cape, especially during the time of the Spice Route trades.

At the Cape of Good Hope – you’ll see lots of stone, jenga-like towers (kinda like inukshuks).

I heard from someone that this is a Chinese thing?

A Chinese sailor, explorer, diplomat Zheng He is reportedly one of the first to round the Cape on his way to the Americas, as early as 1407. This was apparently before the Dutch, British or Spanish…

And so the Chinese commerate this by building these little stone towers…

Of course the Chinese in me needed to the same! :)

Making my stone tower at the Cape of Good Hope

The Wine Region

There are two areas – Stellenbosch and Franschoek

Because of the way I needed to structure my day, we stayed in Stellenbosch…

Gorgeous.

Delicious.

SO sad it costs almost double to ship such amazing wine to Canada…

Yes – we do get South African wine in Canada –

But you guys, what is available in South Africa is a hundred times better!

I did 3 tastings, including a “master tasting” that included cheese with each of the 8 wines.

The master tasting was at Fairview Estate.

We do get some of their Goats Do Roam wines I believe…

But Fairview was the only “commercialized” winery we went to…

The others were small and local and perfect.

We started the day at Hertenberg – they had an incredible 2008 Shiraz which I hear you can get from a distributer they have in Toronto…

And ended the day at Stark Condé.

They had an amazing 2011 Syrah that I fell in love with…

Did I mention that I also did a chocolate tasting

Yeah…that has changed my life forever with chocolate –

Nothing less than 70% cocoa will do!

Dinner at the Codfather's

Food

Having been in landed locked Botswana for two months, I craved seafood like nobody’s business

I ate at local joints that had amazingly fresh seafood –

From sushi/sashimi to grilled lagostines and tiger shrimp and kingklip (local fish), I was in heaven.

Cape Town is a haven for fresh and delicious fish.

Foodies check out!

The Miller’s Thumb, Peter’s, The Codfather and Willoughby’s at V&A Waterfront.

Right now I cannot say enough about Cape Town.

There’s so much more to say.

So many more stories.

Locals that I have met who took me out and recommended delicious eats and fun things to do…

There’s still so much more to explore.

My palette has been whet.

God willing, one day I will return…

For more pictures click HERE for a Flipagram

An Interlude from my African Adventures for a more serious topic: ALS

My brother Christopher and I being silly...

In a couple of days I fly off for yet another mini – adventure – Cape Town. It’s supposed to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world! One where two oceans meet, where you can climb a mountain, go paragliding, shark diving, wine tasting, see penguins and eat amazing food all in a day…ok, maybe not in one day but in a few days! And here I am thinking, I am too lucky. How is it that I get to do all this, and my brother is at home suffering from a horrible disease.

My brother Christopher suffers from Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (ALS), otherwise known as Lou Gehrig’s disease. In short, the disease affects you in such as way that your muscles stop working, from your largest to your smallest.

Now I don’t want to speak out of turn, my brother may actually be having a really good day – one in which he was able to sleep all night, enjoy time with his friends and my puppy, have lots of energy and eat well. There is also the possibility that Christopher didn’t have a good day… But the reality is, he’s at home and I’m in Africa.

What made me think of this now?

Well – there’s this awesome little article in McLean’s onALS.

I found it on my Facebook page.

ALS Canada posted it and if you’re my FB friend, you’ve seen that I shared it as well.

Here’s the crazy thing about this disease.

They have no idea what causes it.

And I suppose you can figure out the corollary here, if they don’t know what causes it, then they CANNOT cure it.

It is a horrible thing to live with, and I don’t even have the disease.

Imagine your entire body breaking down right in front of your eyes and you can’t do anything about it.

Remember, your brain is not a muscle – so it’s not affected.

You know everything that is happening to you.

I’m telling you all this because  -

A.      It sucks.

B.    We need help to put an end to this illness. 

C.      I can only think positively about improving my brother’s life and the lives of the 3000 Canadians who currently live with ALS and the thousands others around the world.

Please take the five minutes out of your day it took me to read this short article in Mclean’s. CLICK ME

I would also love it you could share it with those you know. 

And finally, as a family, we 

Janice Robertson and her amazing team
(and me too)

participate in the ALS Canada walk in Toronto. If you would like to find out how to participate or donate, please let me know. ANYTHING helps. 

But just so you know, I’m thinking about doing something BIGGER to help put an end to ALS. I'm going to ask ALL of YOU to help me.

In the article you will hear from, this amazing woman, Janice Robertson –  She and her team (who I’ve also been lucky enough to meet) are making some great inroads in the research of ALS.  Also mentioned in the article is my brother’s doctor, Lorne Zinman.

Thanks for listening.

And perhaps I’ve even incited you to take some action yourself.

Til next time…

Real World Gaborone - Episode 4

Outside of the government building where you
apply for passport

This is the true story of five strangers, picked to live in a house, work together and have their lives taped, to find out what happens when people stop being polite... and start getting real. This is The Real World, Gaborone.

“Sometimes you just have to come up with a list of what to do when the power goes out,” I say.

“Now you’re sounding like actuary Tina,” Jenny says.

“But my point is that we should be prepared…this power thing sounds like it’s going to be a long-term issue,” I explain.

“Ok, what should be on the list?”

“Read a book?” I say tentatively…

“Yeah – we need to be FAR less plugged in!” Jenny says.

And this is what it’s been like – Power and water are a serious issue these days in Botswana.

When we first arrived here, it was water.

We had 3 days a week where there was no water available during the day.

Now that it’s finally raining, the power is the issue.

The rain is hampering coal production in South Africa where Botswana imports 85% of their power.

Botswana is in the midst of building their own power station but has had issues with it.

They are trying to rectify the issue, obviously, but apparently it could mean that we are without power up to six hours a day, every day, until the end of April.

In Casa Maria that means, no water.

I think that’s what makes us most cranky.

That, and no internet.

The other night Tina and I sat in the car another half hour after we got home, just listening to the radio, trying to feel connected to the outside world after a full day without power.

Random Conversations with locals

Some of my friends have been asking what life is REALLY like here in Botswana.

The following are a few conversations with local Batswana.

Please note, I don't want to generalize that this is what it's like all over Botswana - 

These are simply short interactions with the Batswana we know.

**

A street musician in Main Mall

“I don’t know about women working.” Kopano says.

“What do you mean?” Jenny asks.

“Well…look at your shoes!” Kopano points to Jenny’s heels, “How are you supposed to carry food back to your home in those?”

*****

“Ummmm…I just got offered the tea lady’s baby,” I say as I walk into our office.

“What?” Tina asks.

“Yeah, I was talking to Belé and the coffee lady* and she showed me a picture of her 7 month old son and asked if I would take him home.”

“That is so weird,” Jenny says.

“Yeah, but maybe they think you would give him a better life.” Tina adds.

“He is kinda cute…” I say, “But Jenny, aren’t you the one who wanted to adopt a little African baby? Here’s your chance!”

*coffee lady – we have a woman in the office who brings us coffee, tea, and sometimes cookies each morning.

Belé is the “office boy” – less of a “boy”, more of a 40-something man, he runs errands for the directors, washes our car from time to time (with only a bucket of water in the office car park), and happens to like me J

*****

Perhaps the man who fixed my shoes?
Main Mall

This morning, we arrive to the office and pull in to the parking garage. We empty the contents of the truck and head to the elevator.

“Good morning Belé!” I say with a smile.

“Dumela Mma,” he returns as he takes my bags from me.

We exchange pleasantries when I show him the one plastic bag I’m carrying this morning.

“Belé, can you help me today?”

“Yes Mma.”

“I need my shoes re-soled and re-heeled.”

“No problem Mma. No problem,” Belé smiles, “I will take them for you today.”

It is as simple as that! I go about my day’s meetings and Belé takes my shoes to get fixed. Before lunch, they’re back in my hands and I’m only $8 lighter, and that includes a tip for Belé! Things like this could get me used to life in Africa…

****************

Jr. – a mid-20’s Toronto boy, born and bred. Accountant by trade. On this project to travel and try something different. Nurse/student girlfriend at home.

Trevor – an early 30’s guy from the Caribbean. Completed a number of these types of projects before in different countries. Single

Tina – a late 30’s/early 40’s Caribbean woman who has lived and worked with Trevor on projects in different countries. Single

Jenny – an early 30’s woman from Vancouver. Common-law Life partner at home.

And me. LuckyCdnGirl. Accustomed to travel but never been to Africa

Safari Time in the Okavango Delta!

The rain stopped and I was actually able to connect through the net and call my mom.

She told me my brother asked just how many safaris I needed to go on…

The answer?

As many as I can.

I have just returned from the Okavango Delta in north-west Botswana.

One word cannot describe my time there.

It was…incredible, beautiful, relaxing, educational, amazing, SO worth a trip to Africa!

But for now let me tell you a bit about my weekend in the “bush” (with no cellular service and no internet for four days!).

Quick highlights -

Tiny, sweet little lion cubs

A one week old giraffe!

Hippos!

Lions with a kill…

And finally, a leopard!

The night we saw the leopard, we had already returned to camp from our evening game drive. 

The little plane that flew me from Maun to my camp

We had just had some pre-dinner drinks poured when we heard a leopard had been spotted nearby. We all hopped back into our truck and were off. We met up with two other trucks and briefly spotted the beautiful young leopard sitting on the road. But just as fast as we found it, it disappeared back into the grass.

The other two trucks went back to their camp. We were relentless.

Unfortunately our spotlight was broken and we were only using a flashlight.

Our guide radio-ed back to the camp and, very quickly we were back in business.

The firepit area in camp with a couple
Impala just grazing...

Our tracker and guide traced the leopard’s paw prints and anticipated where it might be.

We found him.

He was beautiful.

We lost him again briefly in the grass…

Then, to our surprise, out came a hyena.

EEEEWWW – those things, I’m sorry to say, are NOT at all pretty.

Before long, we tracked down the leopard again.

He was long, lean and on a hunt.

We spotted antelope nearby.

The leopard was hungry.

We found the right spot, turned off our light and listened.

Only the sounds of crickets, frogs, and other “critters” were heard in the night.

Only light came from the amazing number of stars in the sky.

(I had NO idea how many stars were actually in amongst the stars that made the Orion constellation!)

We probably sat for a good 45 minutes when finally we heard a commotion.

The sweetest little lion cubs!

Then silence again.

We turned the spotlight back on.

The antelope were gone.

The leopard missed.

As much as maybe I wanted to see a “kill”, I was kinda glad we didn’t and we headed back to camp.

The hippos!

I SO much wanted to have a hippo encounter.

You know, me and a hippo face-to-face-ish…

And everyone kept telling me that was a dumb idea.

Afterall, hippos are the number one killers of humans in Africa!

Really!

And I didn’t get it until I had my own close-up, heart-stopping lion encounter.

Worthog
This little "cutie" freaked me out in the camp,
he was just hangin' out on the path to my tent!

It was a rather rainy morning and we had just seen a mama giraffe and her one week old baby!

How cute!

The little male had his umbilical cord still hanging from him – that’s how “fresh” he was!

And yet, he was taller than me!

(They come out head first from their standing mom at 2 metres tall! Literally dropped into the world!)

So there we are – high from this sweet safari experience when we head to see young male lions with their kill. Now this is one of those safari experiences that you either want to see or don’t want to see. I was certain I wanted to see this!

The young male lions were sleeping. Their dinner, a zebra, was just around the other side of a bush.

It was amazing to see how it had been cleaned right out, the whole body was in tact, it was just that it had been opened and emptied.

You could literally count all the ribs…It was empty.

My lovely lovely

Closer to our truck were the zebra’s lungs.

And on the other side of the truck, partially covered was another “innard.”

(They cover up parts they haven’t eaten yet to hide the scent from other predatory scavengers like the jackal, hyena, and vulture.)

One of the lions woke to check on its half-eaten dinner.

We watched and took lots of pictures.

It licked the zebra’s skin (also to mask the scent), then, it came to check on that lung.

When it began eating the lung, I almost lost the muffin I ate at breakfast…

I was recording it (yup – some of you will be lucky to see it if you want!) and thought, someone at home will find this interesting…

Honestly, I get that it’s nature, but it was kinda gross – hearing, seeing, smelling it all…

Anyway – the lion decides he’s had enough and now he’s gone around our truck to check on the other zebra innard he’s left in a pile of grass.

At this point, I’m feeling totally at home with the lion, it’s doing his thing, I’m doing mine…

I start taking selfies with the lion behind me…

When Tuelo (my guide) whispers loud enough for me to hear, “Cherrie! Do NOT move. He sees you.”

"My lion selfie"
Just before I thought I was gonna get pounced on!

WHAT???

I mean, yeah, I saw the lion scrapping the ground, putting more grass on top of his food.

I see him move around a bit.

I see him look up in one of my selfies.

UH DUH.

He sees me.

I am not moving.

I am not breathing.

He approaches the truck.

I swear his paws are right under it, he’s sniffing.

I hear this.

I’m freaking out a little.

I know that all he has to do is jump up and I’m gone.

And of course, as soon as he takes one whiff of the truck, he realizes it’s not new dinner.

Phew!

I’m breathing again.

I’m ready to go.

And a close encounter with a hippo?

Yeah – I no longer want that!

Two young male lions

Tuelo, our guide, and Chester, our tracker are awesome.

They both grew up in the Delta.

They know their stuff.

Seriously – they can make all the bird noises.

They can tell you what something is from miles away.

And then they have the craziest, most detailed info about every creature.

In as much as it was a fun safari, it was totally educational also.

The camp – Little Kwara is so great.

There are only five tents at the camp, which means personal service!

I would say that for most of the time I was there, there were more staff than guests!

The personal attention is amazing.

The food was so delicious.

Home-made bread and muffins in the morning.

Delicious meals.

Totally spoiled.

Also – this camp does not have fences to keep the animals away.

So once it’s dark, you can’t just wander off, your guide has to take you to your tent.

I really wanted to see an elephant in the camp, (which actually happened while I was there, but missed it) but instead I was only momentarily freaked out by a mama warthog and her baby.

Actually, I think I freaked the baby out more than it freaked me out.

Worthogs, now their “ugliness” is debatable. I think they’re cute!

I was also totally ready to hear the animals at night.

Tuelo points out hippo tracks

Turns out I’m a deep sleeper.

Every single night the lions roared.

Every single night, I slept right through it.

The best I heard were the hyenas on my evening walk back to my tent.

Oh and I heard hippos one morning also!

They sound like really big pigs!

There are so many other stories

And so many pictures to share.

My dear brother, I think I will keep going on safaris as long as I can.

Did I tell you I met an 83 year old couple from Connecticut?

Someone told me once that Africa gets into your soul.

They just might be right.

And to borrow Mark  Zuckerberg’s words…

“The journey is only 1% finished.”

…now back to work…I’ve gotta save up for my next adventure!

For a few extra shots via Flipagram, click HERE!

One of a few rickety bridges in the bush

Ostriches

On one of the rivers in the Delta

Mama and baby giraffe

With its kill

Hippo!

Chester (our tracker), Tuelo (our guide) and me!