Showing posts with label lion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lion. Show all posts

Thursday, 6 March 2014

Safari Time in the Okavango Delta!



The rain stopped and I was actually able to connect through the net and call my mom.
She told me my brother asked just how many safaris I needed to go on…
The answer?
As many as I can.

I have just returned from the Okavango Delta in north-west Botswana.
One word cannot describe my time there.
It was…incredible, beautiful, relaxing, educational, amazing, SO worth a trip to Africa!

But for now let me tell you a bit about my weekend in the “bush” (with no cellular service and no internet for four days!).


Quick highlights -
Tiny, sweet little lion cubs
A one week old giraffe!
Hippos!
Lions with a kill…
And finally, a leopard!

The night we saw the leopard, we had already returned to camp from our evening game drive. 
The little plane that flew me from Maun to my camp
We had just had some pre-dinner drinks poured when we heard a leopard had been spotted nearby. We all hopped back into our truck and were off. We met up with two other trucks and briefly spotted the beautiful young leopard sitting on the road. But just as fast as we found it, it disappeared back into the grass.

The other two trucks went back to their camp. We were relentless.
Unfortunately our spotlight was broken and we were only using a flashlight.
Our guide radio-ed back to the camp and, very quickly we were back in business.

The firepit area in camp with a couple
Impala just grazing...
Our tracker and guide traced the leopard’s paw prints and anticipated where it might be.
We found him.
He was beautiful.
We lost him again briefly in the grass…
Then, to our surprise, out came a hyena.
EEEEWWW – those things, I’m sorry to say, are NOT at all pretty.
Before long, we tracked down the leopard again.
He was long, lean and on a hunt.
We spotted antelope nearby.
The leopard was hungry.
We found the right spot, turned off our light and listened.
Only the sounds of crickets, frogs, and other “critters” were heard in the night.
Only light came from the amazing number of stars in the sky.
(I had NO idea how many stars were actually in amongst the stars that made the Orion constellation!)
We probably sat for a good 45 minutes when finally we heard a commotion.
The sweetest little lion cubs!
Then silence again.
We turned the spotlight back on.
The antelope were gone.
The leopard missed.
As much as maybe I wanted to see a “kill”, I was kinda glad we didn’t and we headed back to camp.

The hippos!
I SO much wanted to have a hippo encounter.
You know, me and a hippo face-to-face-ish…
And everyone kept telling me that was a dumb idea.
Afterall, hippos are the number one killers of humans in Africa!
Really!
And I didn’t get it until I had my own close-up, heart-stopping lion encounter.

Worthog
This little "cutie" freaked me out in the camp,
he was just hangin' out on the path to my tent!
It was a rather rainy morning and we had just seen a mama giraffe and her one week old baby!
How cute!
The little male had his umbilical cord still hanging from him – that’s how “fresh” he was!
And yet, he was taller than me!
(They come out head first from their standing mom at 2 metres tall! Literally dropped into the world!)

So there we are – high from this sweet safari experience when we head to see young male lions with their kill. Now this is one of those safari experiences that you either want to see or don’t want to see. I was certain I wanted to see this!

The young male lions were sleeping. Their dinner, a zebra, was just around the other side of a bush.
It was amazing to see how it had been cleaned right out, the whole body was in tact, it was just that it had been opened and emptied.
You could literally count all the ribs…It was empty.

My lovely lovely
Closer to our truck were the zebra’s lungs.
And on the other side of the truck, partially covered was another “innard.”
(They cover up parts they haven’t eaten yet to hide the scent from other predatory scavengers like the jackal, hyena, and vulture.)
One of the lions woke to check on its half-eaten dinner.
We watched and took lots of pictures.
It licked the zebra’s skin (also to mask the scent), then, it came to check on that lung.
When it began eating the lung, I almost lost the muffin I ate at breakfast…
I was recording it (yup – some of you will be lucky to see it if you want!) and thought, someone at home will find this interesting…
Honestly, I get that it’s nature, but it was kinda gross – hearing, seeing, smelling it all…

Anyway – the lion decides he’s had enough and now he’s gone around our truck to check on the other zebra innard he’s left in a pile of grass.
At this point, I’m feeling totally at home with the lion, it’s doing his thing, I’m doing mine…
I start taking selfies with the lion behind me…
When Tuelo (my guide) whispers loud enough for me to hear, “Cherrie! Do NOT move. He sees you.”
"My lion selfie"
Just before I thought I was gonna get pounced on!

WHAT???
I mean, yeah, I saw the lion scrapping the ground, putting more grass on top of his food.
I see him move around a bit.
I see him look up in one of my selfies.
UH DUH.
He sees me.
I am not moving.
I am not breathing.
He approaches the truck.
I swear his paws are right under it, he’s sniffing.
I hear this.
I’m freaking out a little.
I know that all he has to do is jump up and I’m gone.
And of course, as soon as he takes one whiff of the truck, he realizes it’s not new dinner.
Phew!
I’m breathing again.
I’m ready to go.
And a close encounter with a hippo?
Yeah – I no longer want that!

Two young male lions
Tuelo, our guide, and Chester, our tracker are awesome.
They both grew up in the Delta.
They know their stuff.
Seriously – they can make all the bird noises.
They can tell you what something is from miles away.
And then they have the craziest, most detailed info about every creature.
In as much as it was a fun safari, it was totally educational also.
The camp – Little Kwara is so great.
There are only five tents at the camp, which means personal service!
I would say that for most of the time I was there, there were more staff than guests!
The personal attention is amazing.
The food was so delicious.
Home-made bread and muffins in the morning.
Delicious meals.
Totally spoiled.

Also – this camp does not have fences to keep the animals away.
So once it’s dark, you can’t just wander off, your guide has to take you to your tent.
I really wanted to see an elephant in the camp, (which actually happened while I was there, but missed it) but instead I was only momentarily freaked out by a mama warthog and her baby.
Actually, I think I freaked the baby out more than it freaked me out.
Worthogs, now their “ugliness” is debatable. I think they’re cute!

I was also totally ready to hear the animals at night.
Tuelo points out hippo tracks
Turns out I’m a deep sleeper.
Every single night the lions roared.
Every single night, I slept right through it.
The best I heard were the hyenas on my evening walk back to my tent.
Oh and I heard hippos one morning also!
They sound like really big pigs!

There are so many other stories
And so many pictures to share.

My dear brother, I think I will keep going on safaris as long as I can.
Did I tell you I met an 83 year old couple from Connecticut?
Someone told me once that Africa gets into your soul.
They just might be right.
And to borrow Mark  Zuckerberg’s words…
“The journey is only 1% finished.”


…now back to work…I’ve gotta save up for my next adventure!

For a few extra shots via Flipagram, click HERE!

One of a few rickety bridges in the bush



Ostriches

On one of the rivers in the Delta

Mama and baby giraffe



With its kill

Hippo!

Chester (our tracker), Tuelo (our guide) and me!


Monday, 17 February 2014

Return to Tau


Panoramic View from the back deck of my hut

Early last week we were looking for a little getaway. Just some place to enjoy the outdoors and maybe see something new. After some consultation with (our new best friend, travel agent) Mandy, we decided we’d return to Madikwe in South Africa and stay again at Tau Lodge. Little did we know just how good a decision that was…

Chocolate lava cake (dessert on last day lunch)
As we pulled up to the Lodge midday on Saturday, our Game Driver Patrick (from two weeks ago) was there to greet us along with cold homemade lemonade and a great big smile. I think we actually “squealed” with delight knowing Patrick would once again be our game driver and take us on our safari adventures! Our room assignments are given to us and we headed to lunch.

Lunch at Tau is bountiful. The buffet greets us with numerous salads and hot dishes. I head for my favourites: chicken pie, spinach and beef salad and a smattering of fruit. Dessert, which must be noted, consisted of a chocolate caramel tarte, passionfruit panacotta and tiramisu. Every bite was heavenly.



Part of what is so incredible about Tau is their spa. Jackie and Evelyn are the sweetest and most talented aestheticians. As I did on our last visit, I opt for a hot stone massage. Evelyn whispers quietly to met\ to ensure I am comfortable. How could I not be? The hot stones are warm and so calming,  I fall into a short  nap…

Afternoon game drive immediately provides one lone and majestic elephant. I have to say, even though I’ve been on four game drives now, it is a new experience every time – even in the same reserve. I will never tire of seeing elephants or the baby lion cubs. Patrick never disappoints. He combines the intel provided by other game drivers (by radio) and tracks animal prints and poops on the roads. I love seeing Patrick slow the truck down, stare at the ground, reverse the vehicle and switch direction – when he does this, you know you’re about to be in for a treat!
For example, we spent a good twenty minutes Saturday afternoon, ohhh-ing and ahhhh-ing at two lion cubs. They were hidden under a cluster of tall bushes; adorable little cubs, probably only four weeks old. One looked at us curiously, while the other slept without notice of us. It was incredible to see…and from time to time, we realized that mama lion, might not be so far away, and that we should watch our backs!

Later that afternoon we came upon 9 female lions of different ages and sizes. Around the same
9 Female Lions
spot, we also spied two large ostriches in the distance…We followed for a while, watching the lions notice the ostriches and start to walk slowly in their direction. We thought, for a moment, that we might get to see a “kill”! Not this time… instead we continued to follow the lions, watching them walk, stop, lie in the tall grass and play with one another.
We had an amazing elephant encounter with the very large grey beast, who came right up beside our truck…we all held our breaths…some caught it on video, almost missing the event in “real life”. Saying it was amazing, does not seem to do the experience justice. But what more can I say? It was amazing…

My Outdoor Shower
While at the lodge, you worry for nothing. Nothing. This time my hut was closer to the watering hole and I spent some time sitting outside, listening to the sounds of birds, the soft trampling of the antelope and the splashes of the alligators. Each hut has a little soaker tub, complete with bath salts and an outdoor shower. Showering bathed in the light of a full moon and a sky full of stars is absolutely unreal. Similarly, showering in the sunshine, with a view of the watering hole is something I will not soon forget.

The lodge’s servers (David), staff (Tumi), front desk staff (Poppy & Rebone), bar man (“President”), spa staff (Evelyn & Jackie) and pastry chef (didn’t catch her name) are all amazing. Everyone remembered us from our previous visit (albeit it was only two weeks ago), and made us feel special.

One absolutely special treat. Rebone, who works at the front, told me she had a special gift for
Patrick gives us a lesson on animal tracks
me. I was told not to open it until we were out of the park. I didn’t open the package until back home in Gabs. It wasn’t from Tau Lodge. The present was from Patrick, our ranger (who is actually sub-contracted, we requested him on our bookings for this trip because we loved him so much two weeks ago). Patrick had given me a wood carving of a giraffe.

He remembered they were my favourite.

Absolute sweetness.


Every meal with a view of the Watering Hole

Relaxing on my deck...
a stop for coffee and rusks (kinda like biscottti)
on morning game drive

Thursday, 6 February 2014

Safari Time! (Madikwe Reserve, South Africa)

Super Excited to be on Safari!!!

The LION KING! :)
Approaching Madikwe Game Reserve

UPDATE: Want to see more pix? Check out my Flipagram at Cherrie's Safari pix in 30 seconds! 

Have you ever been lucky enough to go on safari?
It is the most incredible experience!
Being upclose and personal with the animals – Totally indescribable…but I will try.

We stayed at Tau Lodge in the Madikwe Reserve in South Africa.
Madikwe is 75000 hectares big!
It's one of the largest game reserves in South Africa and they have both the "Big 5" and the "Magnificient 7".
The Big 5 are: the lion, rhino, leopard, elephant and buffalo... 
And the wild dog and cheetah and you've got the magnificent 7.
(We got to see the magnificent 7 minus the leopard...which apparently is the hardest to find.)

While at the lodge, our stay included two game drives daily. One early in the morning and one in the evening.

Each day worked like this:
5am - wake up call
5am-530am - tea/coffee/muffins
530- 9am - game drive
9am - breakfast
1pm - lunch
430pm - afternoon tea
5 - 8pm - game drive
8pm - dinner

They look like busy days - but you have the FULL day between game drives to go back to sleep, go to the spa, go to the pool...etc. 

Tau had amazing huts/chalets that we stayed in.
All of the "huts" backed a watering hole where animals come by to drink.
There were tons of waterbuck antelope and zebras that went by - but one of the afternoons I also saw three wort hogs! That was so cool!
I was eye to eye with these animals, probably about 20 ft apart…
The only thing that separates us is an electrified fence.

My amazing room...those steps lead to a hot tub!





While we were on game drive we had the same ranger every time. Ours was named Patrick and he was amazing. He was able to look in the road for paw/hoof marks and figure out where to go - he'd also look at the different "poop" in the road to see if it was 'fresh' and if we should follow it! Then when we found animals - Patrick would make sure we had optimal viewing. If there was another truck, he'd circle around the animals to get a better vantage point!

Some of my animal highlights...
 - The first time we saw lions - lying lazily under a tree...they totally didn't care we were there. Turns out, we found out later, that had just feasted on a kill earlier in the day.
  •  The first and second time we saw giraffes. They were so tall and beautiful and elegant. The next time we saw giraffes, zebras came by and they all just "hung out" together.
  •  Seeing the white rhinos! They were adolescent boys and literally walked in front of us while they were playing... it was crazy! 
  •  The first time we saw mane lions! The lion king! There were two big guys... Again, they totally didn't care we were around. It was so strange!
  •  The first time we saw elephants. They are so huge but so quiet. And one night we even came upon like 20 of them! They literally stood between us and the gate to our lodge.

 
One of five white Rhino's that walked past our truck




And in every case we also saw babies! We are in summer now so the baby animals we saw were all just born this past spring! I'd never seen soooo many cute baby elephants! It was pretty amazing.






The food…OMG the food was incredible at the lodge – and plentiful. I am certain that I gained 7 lbs over the weekend.
We also got to experience some local game – like ostrich carpaccio, grilled eland, impala pie! It was all delicious!
On each game drive we also stopped for refreshments, hard liquor, pop, juice and water along with dried nuts, fruit, jerky, meat pies and cookies. So as you can see, we were well nourished.

I dream of returning to this spa...
One other thing! Did I tell you about the spa??? Yup – Tau also had a full spa. On one occasion I enjoyed a hot stone massage and on the second a moisturizing and revitalizing facial.

So – Safari life…if you get the opportunity – do it!
It is incredible! :)


…Now…back to work! 


Patrick, our Game Driver, setting up our coffee and tea on a morning drive.

Me, thinking, "This is ABSOLUTELY insane! Those are zebras!"

Our Game Drive Truck

Sunset at Madikwe